How to pick a good Shiraz - the perfect Winter Drop

Shiraz is a dark-skinned variety that can produce strong, full-bodied and intense wine.  James Busby brought it to Australia in the early 1800’s but the origins of Shiraz (known as Syrah in France) are debatable, with one theory suggesting it was brought back from the city of Shiraz in Ancient Persia by a French Knight and planted near his home in the Rhône Valley, France.  This - while a great story - is unfortunately not true with DNA tests revealing the Syrah grape variety is actually native to France.  This testing also concluded that Syrah is the offspring of two obscure varietals which are native to Southeastern France – ‘Mondeuse Blanche’ and ‘Dureza’.   

So what is Shiraz like to drink?

Colour

Anywhere from medium red through rich purple/red to black in the bigger styles.

Nose

Primary fruit characters from cooler climate styles to warmer region examples include: herbs, mint, spice, pepper, menthol, eucalypt, raspberry, dark cherry, mulberry, blackberry, plum, blackcurrant, black olives, aniseed, licorice, stewed plum, chocolate, jammy and raisin.

As Shiraz ages its primary aromas and flavours begin to evolve into more complex and savoury secondary/developed characters. These include: chocolate, earthy, barnyard, cowyard, cigar-box, coffee, gamey, meaty, salami and leather, mushroom.

Palate

The palate should have plenty of flavour, usually with a lovely sweetness in the mid-palate due to ripe fruit and alcohol.  Young wines will often give a firm tannin impression of big, but soft, chewy, mouth-puckering tannins. In older wines the tannins will be finer giving a grainy sensation. Higher alcohol levels, usually in warmer climate examples, can give a hot warming feeling as the wine is swallowed.

Oak characters are usually present, but should not dominate. French oak is the subtler of the two main oak types adding notes of cedar and spice, and fine-grained tannin which integrate well as the wine ages. American oak loads the wine with coconut and vanilla flavours and it can easily dominate and does not integrate as well as the wine ages. Sometimes a combination of the two oaks can be used.

How to pick a good Shiraz

If you like a young, full-bodied Shiraz it can be drunk within a few years but because it generally has higher tannins and higher alcohol content is can also go the cellaring distance.    For the much older vintages, make sure the level is good at the top of the neck, and that there is no wine leaking through the cork. Enquire about it's origin and how long it has been there.  If you have the chance to taste before you buy, look for the defining fruit characters mentioned above that Shiraz should offer, and also the structure is very important. Try to avoid 'baked' characters, this can sometimes mean the wine has been stored badly, or it may be past its peak.


For me, great Shiraz producing regions in Australia include the iconic Barossa Valley, Eden Valley, Heathcote in Victoria and I'm a big fan of the Canberra District which produce the more subtle syles. 

2007 Radford Shiraz, Eden Valley  South Australia - $38 per bottle

For my palate The 2007 Radford Shiraz from Eden Valley is a perfect example of what a Shiraz should be.  This is the work of Ben and Gill Radford, who are making small parcels of excellent high-altitude wines that have great depth of character but finesse and restraint.  Ben has been head winemaker at the cult winery Rockford  in the Barossa Valley since 2007, so Gill has taken charge of the Radford labels. If your a white wine fan the Radford's also have the oldest Riesling vines in the Eden Valley (planted in 1930).  Their bio-dynamically grown Riesling is some of the best I've seen.

Tasting notes: Medium bodied, blackberries, ripe plums and spice (white pepper) on the palate.  Firm but approachable tannins, very intense, moorish style that makes you crave that second glass.

Would Go Well With :  Lamb chops and coriander pesto, hard cheeses (cheddar such as Quicks), veal schnitzel

Tell Your Guests:   The Barossa Valley is home to some of the oldest Shiraz vines in the world, with the oldest block being at Langmeil which was planted in 1843.

Cellaring Potential:  5-12 years so your choice to drink now or cellar for later.  The following vintage (2008) is also a good drop,

To buy:  The 2007 Radford Shiraz from Eden Valley it is available direct from the vineyard website for $38 per bottle.  Click here if you want to buy.